Paris strikes back as foodie destination

A new wave of chefs is remaking French cuisine



Copenhagen and other hot culinary cities like London, New York and Tokyo should watch out. A “new wave” of young chefs, many of them foreigners, is remaking French cuisine.

France has suffered as a food destination in recent decades. Raw-milk cheeses have disappeared, French wine consumption has halved since the 1960s and France is now McDonalds’ second-biggest market.

But, suddenly, Paris is showing signs of strength as young foreign chefs are making French cuisine desirable again. Twenty years ago this idea would have been laughable. But restaurants such as Bones, with its Australian chef James Henry, are winning the hearts of French critics and diners.

“The food scene is the strongest cultural movement in France right now,” Luc Dubanchet, founder of the forward-thinking publication Omnivore, says. “For this generation, it’s what music was in the 60s and 70s.”

Other restaurants in this new wave are Roseval, a bistro in Belleville with a Sardinian and an Anglo-American chef, Albion with its British chef and sommelier from New Zealand, and Les Enfants Rouges run by a Japanese husband and wife. All serve satisfying, homey French cuisine.

International New York Times

[pictured: Les Enfants Rouges]


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